P0368 Code: That Long Crank on Chrysler V6/V8 Engines, Fixed

V8 Engines, Fixed

STOP — Long Crank on a Chrysler V6/V8? Start Here

P0368 Code: That Long Crank on Chrysler V6/V8 Engines, Fixed

A P0368 code and an engine that cranks for five seconds before catching feels serious — but in most cases it isn't. From our diagnostic experience, the majority of P0368 codes are fixed with a $30 sensor or simply cleaning an oil-soaked connector. This guide shows you exactly how to find the real cause before you pay for unnecessary engine work.

Updated May 2026 14 min read DIY Difficulty: Beginner-Intermediate Fix Cost: $5 – $400
⚡ QUICK ANSWER

P0368 means the "B" camshaft position sensor on Bank 1 — usually the exhaust camshaft sensor — is reading abnormally high voltage (above 4.5V). The PCM can't trust the timing data, so it falls back to crankshaft-only timing, which causes the hallmark long crank and rough idle. The fixes, in order of probability: (1) clean an oil-contaminated sensor connector ($5), (2) replace the camshaft position sensor with an OEM part ($30–$80), (3) fix a leaking valve cover gasket that's soaking the harness ($150–$400). Engine internal work is almost never the answer.

What Does P0368 Actually Mean?

Your engine has two critical position sensors: the crankshaft position sensor tells the PCM where the pistons are, and the camshaft position sensor(s) tell the PCM where the valves are. The PCM cross-references both to decide which cylinder is on the compression stroke and fire the correct injector and spark plug at the right microsecond.

On a dual-overhead-cam (DOHC) engine, "Sensor A" is typically the intake camshaft sensor and "Sensor B" is the exhaust camshaft sensor. "Bank 1" is the engine bank that contains cylinder #1. So P0368 = the exhaust camshaft position sensor on Bank 1 is sending a voltage signal that's too high — above the 0.5–4.5V working range, usually railed near the 5V supply.

Why high voltage? The sensor's signal wire is supposed to swing between near-zero and the 5V reference as the toothed wheel on the camshaft spins past it. A "circuit high" condition means the signal is stuck up at 5V — usually because the sensor has failed open, its ground wire is broken, or the signal wire has shorted to the 5V supply (often through oil-contaminated wiring).
Critical: P0368 is a circuit code, not a confirmed bad camshaft or engine. The PCM detected an electrical fault on the sensor signal. The fix is almost always in the sensor, connector, or wiring — not in the engine itself. Don't authorize timing chain or camshaft work without ruling out the cheaper electrical causes first.

What Are the Symptoms of P0368?

Unlike emissions-monitor codes, P0368 usually produces immediate, recognizable drivability symptoms because the engine has lost half of its timing reference. The most common P0368 symptoms include:

Long crank before starting — the hallmark symptom; engine turns over for 3–8 seconds before catching
Check Engine Light — always present; may flash during rough operation
Rough idle / loping — particularly when cold; smooths somewhat once warm
Hesitation or stumble on acceleration — fuel and spark timing isn't optimized
Reduced fuel economy — PCM defaults to a richer, conservative fueling map
No-start in worst cases — rare, but possible if both camshaft signals are lost
Why no immediate failure? Modern PCMs have a "limp" mode — if a camshaft signal is missing or invalid, the computer uses crankshaft data alone and guesses timing. The engine runs, but inefficiently. That's why P0368 is annoying but not immediately catastrophic.

Is P0368 Code Serious?

It's moderately serious — annoying rather than dangerous. Unlike codes that cause stalling or limp mode, P0368 lets the vehicle keep running, but the long cranks and rough idle wear out the starter, battery, and ignition components over time. Four concrete consequences of ignoring it:

Starter and battery wear — repeated 5-second cranks shorten the life of both
Wasted fuel — the PCM's safe-mode fueling burns 5–10% more gas
Failed emissions test — P0368 keeps the readiness monitors incomplete
Possible no-start later — if the wiring fault escalates or a companion sensor also fails

The good news: P0368 is rarely a safety hazard, the vehicle remains drivable, and the typical fix is among the cheapest in the OBD-II code family — a $30 sensor and a 30-minute swap. The right response is to diagnose within 1–2 weeks, not panic-replace expensive parts.

Severity rating: 🟡 Moderate — repair within 1–2 weeks. Not an immediate safety concern, but ignoring it wastes fuel, wears the starter, and guarantees an emissions-test failure. The good news: typical fix is well under $100.

What Causes a P0368 Code? (Ranked by Frequency)

Check causes in this order — the cheapest and most common first. The majority of P0368 cases are resolved between causes #1 and #3 without ever touching the engine's internals.

1

Oil-Contaminated Sensor Connector

This is the single most common cause on Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge, and BMW engines. A leaking valve cover gasket sends oil down the harness and saturates the camshaft sensor connector, shorting the signal wire to the 5V supply. Cleaning the connector and addressing the leak fixes it for free.

Fix: $5 contact cleaner · 30 minutes
2

Failed Camshaft Position Sensor (Internal)

The sensor's internal Hall-effect circuit fails open over time, leaving the signal railed at 5V. This is the second most common cause and the most universally applicable. One 10mm bolt, an O-ring, and 15–30 minutes of labor — easily DIY-able on most vehicles.

Fix: $30–$80 part · 30 minutes
3

Damaged or Corroded Wiring Harness

A broken ground wire is a classic "Circuit High" trigger because the signal floats up to 5V with no path to ground. Chafed insulation, rodent damage, or corroded pins inside the connector are also common — verify continuity with a multimeter before replacing the sensor a second time.

Fix: $20–$150
4

5V Reference Voltage / Alternator Problems

An over-voltage alternator (above 15V system voltage) can push excess voltage into the sensor's 5V reference circuit, triggering Circuit High codes across multiple sensors at once. If P0368 appears with other Circuit High codes, suspect the charging system first.

Fix: $0 test – $250 alternator
5

Faulty Reluctor / Tone Ring

Less common: the toothed wheel on the camshaft that the sensor reads can crack, lose a tooth, or shift on its mount. This usually causes range/performance codes (P0365 family) before circuit-high codes, but it's worth a visual inspection if everything else tests good.

Fix: $100–$400
6

Faulty PCM (Rare)

The PCM's input driver circuit for the camshaft sensor can fail, locking the input high. Only consider this after the sensor, wiring, and reference voltage all test good. Many cases close with a free dealer reflash before any module replacement is needed.

Fix: $0 reflash – $700 PCM

What You'll Need

Tools

  • OBD2 scanner (live data + freeze frame) iCarzone UR800 ›
  • Digital multimeter
  • 10mm socket + extension
  • Battery / alternator tester
  • Flashlight + inspection mirror
  • Safety glasses + gloves

Possible Parts & Supplies

  • Electrical contact cleaner $5–$10
  • OEM camshaft position sensor $30–$80
  • Sensor O-ring (often included) $2–$5
  • Valve cover gasket set $25–$120
  • Wiring repair kit (pigtail + solder) $15–$40
  • Alternator (if charging fault) $120–$300
Recommended Diagnostic Tool for P0368

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How Do You Fix a P0368 Code?

Follow these steps in order. The majority of P0368 cases are resolved by Step 2 — a connector clean — or Step 4 — a sensor replacement — without further work. Use the flowchart below as a quick map of the decision tree.

P0368 Diagnostic Flowchart — Decision Tree

P0368 Diagnostic Flowchart Decision tree starting at "Scan codes and capture freeze frame" and branching through connector oil-contamination inspection, sensor signal voltage measurement, sensor replacement, wiring continuity check, and PCM reflash as a last resort. START · Scan + Freeze Frame Step 2: Inspect sensor connector Oil-soaked? Corroded? Clean & retest Clears? ✓ Done Fix oil-leak source Step 3: Measure signal voltage Should be 0.5–4.5V · railed at 5V? sensor failed Step 4: Replace OEM sensor 10mm bolt · ~30 min · most common fix Code clears? ✓ Drive 50+ miles Step 5: Test wiring + 5V reference Continuity on 3 wires · check alternator output Step 6: TSB reflash / PCM (rare) Last resort — check NHTSA for free reflash first
Figure 1: P0368 diagnostic decision tree — start at top, work down, exit at the first step that clears the code.
  • 1

    Scan for All Codes and Capture Freeze Frame

    Plug in your scanner and record every stored code. P0368 often appears with related codes like P0365 (sensor B circuit), P0366 (low voltage), or P0016/P0017 (camshaft-crankshaft correlation). Capture freeze frame data — RPM, engine load, coolant temperature — that shows the conditions when the fault set, especially whether it triggers on cold start or after warm-up.

    If P0016/P0017 (timing correlation) also appears, the fault may be timing-related rather than purely electrical. Fix any correlation codes first, then re-evaluate P0368.
  • 2

    Inspect the Sensor Connector for Oil Contamination

    On many engines — especially Chrysler 3.5L/3.7L/4.7L V6/V8 and BMW inline-sixes — oil from a leaking valve cover gasket migrates down the harness and saturates the camshaft sensor connector. Unplug the Bank 1 exhaust camshaft sensor, inspect the pins for oil residue, green corrosion, or pushed-back contacts. Spray with electrical contact cleaner and let dry. If the connector is oil-soaked, fix the source leak first — otherwise the new sensor will fail the same way.

    A flashlight angled into the connector cavity quickly reveals oil sheen. Even a thin film is enough to short the signal wire to 5V.
  • 3

    Measure the Sensor Signal Voltage

    With the engine idling, use a multimeter (or your scanner's live data) to read the camshaft sensor's signal voltage. A healthy sensor produces a square-wave signal swinging between roughly 0V and 5V — the average reading hovers between 0.5V and 4.5V depending on engine speed. A constant reading above 4.5V confirms the high-circuit condition that triggers P0368. If the signal is railed high, either the sensor itself has failed open or its ground wire is broken.

  • 4

    Replace the Camshaft Position Sensor

    If the connector is clean but the signal voltage is railed high, replace the Bank 1 exhaust camshaft position sensor. It's typically one 10mm bolt and an O-ring — most installations take 15–30 minutes. Use an OEM part or quality-brand sensor (Standard Motor Products, Delphi, Bosch). Lightly lubricate the new O-ring with engine oil before pressing the sensor home. Clear the code and verify the long crank is gone.

    Important: Cheap aftermarket sensors are the #1 reason a "fixed" P0368 returns. Spend the extra $20 for an OEM or top-tier brand part — it pays for itself by avoiding a re-do.
  • 5

    Test Wiring Continuity and 5V Reference Voltage

    If a new sensor doesn't clear the code, the fault is in the wiring or the PCM's reference voltage. Disconnect both the sensor and the PCM connector, then check continuity of each of the three sensor wires (5V reference, signal, ground). Also verify the 5V reference at the sensor connector with the key on and engine off — a missing or over-voltage reference can trigger P0368 across multiple sensors at once. If reference voltage is over 5.5V, test the alternator for over-voltage charging.

  • 6

    Clear the Code and Verify the Repair

    After any repair, clear all codes and complete several start-and-drive cycles. P0368 typically resets within one cold-start cycle if the underlying problem isn't fixed. Watch live data to confirm the sensor signal stays within 0.5–4.5V across the full RPM range. If the code stays clear after 50+ miles of mixed driving and the long crank is gone, the repair is confirmed.

    Some emissions-test states require the OBD-II readiness monitors to show "Ready" before testing. Drive a full warm-up cycle plus highway segment before heading to the inspection station.

How Much Does P0368 Cost to Fix?

Costs depend entirely on the root cause. P0368 is one of the cheaper OBD-II codes to resolve when caught early — most fixes are well under $100. The table below reflects realistic 2026 pricing across independent shops and DIY parts suppliers.

Repair DIY Cost Shop Cost You Save Type
Connector clean (contact cleaner) $5–$10 $60–$120 Up to $110 Try First
Camshaft position sensor (OEM) $30–$80 $150–$300 Up to $220 DIY Friendly
Wiring repair / connector pigtail $15–$40 $80–$250 Up to $210 DIY Moderate
Valve cover gasket replacement $25–$120 $150–$400 Up to $280 DIY Moderate
Alternator (if over-voltage charging) $120–$300 $250–$600 Up to $300 DIY Moderate
PCM reflash (TSB) N/A (dealer only) $50–$150 Shop Required
PCM replacement + programming $400–$700 $700–$1,200 Up to $500 Shop Advised
Always clean before you replace: Five dollars of electrical contact cleaner and 10 minutes of inspection has the highest cost-per-success ratio of any P0368 fix. Even when the sensor really is bad, a contaminated connector will quickly kill the new one too — so cleaning is never wasted work.

Per the EPA's emissions standards ↗ EPA Vehicle Emissions I/M Program, a vehicle with an active P0368 code will fail an OBD-II emissions test because the powertrain monitor is incomplete. If your vehicle is under the federal emissions warranty (8 years / 80,000 miles), the camshaft sensor and PCM may be covered — check with your dealer before paying out of pocket.

Which Vehicles Are Most Prone to P0368?

These platforms have well-documented P0368 patterns due to sensor design, valve cover gasket leak rates, or harness routing that exposes the connector to oil and heat. We've written dedicated deep-dives for the two highest-volume platforms — Chrysler/Jeep V6/V8 and BMW inline-sixes — below the table.

Make Model Years Primary Cause & Notes Risk
Chrysler / Dodge / Jeep 300, Pacifica, Liberty, Grand Cherokee, Ram 1500, Dakota (3.5L / 3.7L / 4.7L) 2002–2012 Valve cover gasket leaks soak the camshaft sensor connector — the #1 cause across this engine family. See full Chrysler V6/V8 deep-dive below. High
BMW 328i, 528i, X3, X5 (N51 / N52 inline-six) 2006–2013 Failed exhaust camshaft sensor plus the well-known BMW valve cover gasket leak. OEM Bosch is the recommended replacement. See full BMW deep-dive below. High
Hyundai / Kia Sonata, Optima, Sorento (2.4L / 3.5L) 2006–2015 Exhaust camshaft sensor failures are common. Hyundai issued multiple campaign updates — check NHTSA for any open recalls before paying out of pocket. Medium
Ford Mustang, Edge, Explorer, Fusion (3.5L / 3.7L Cyclone V6) 2008–2017 Sensor failures plus harness chafing where the wire routes near the exhaust manifold. Replace the OEM sensor and inspect the harness path. Medium
Nissan / Infiniti Altima, Maxima, G35/G37 (VQ35DE / VQ35HR) 2005–2014 Camshaft sensor failures plus valve cover gasket leaks on the higher-mileage VQ engines. Sensor swap is straightforward; fix the leak source. Medium

P0368 on Chrysler / Jeep / Dodge V6 & V8 (3.5L, 3.7L, 4.7L — 2002–2012)

The 3.5L V6 (300, Pacifica, Sebring), 3.7L SOHC V6 (Liberty, Grand Cherokee, Dakota, Ram 1500), and 4.7L V8 (Grand Cherokee, Dakota, Ram 1500) share a common P0368 pattern that techs call "the Chrysler camshaft cocktail":

1. Valve cover gasket leaks (root cause). The valve covers on these engines develop weeping leaks around 80,000–120,000 miles. Oil migrates down the harness via capillary action and pools in the camshaft sensor connector.

2. Oil intrusion into the connector. Once the connector cavity has even a thin film of oil, the signal wire shorts to the 5V reference — instant Circuit High code. Many owners replace the sensor twice before realizing the leak is the underlying cause.

3. Sensor itself fails secondarily. Sustained oil exposure damages the sensor's Hall element. So by the time you diagnose the code, both the connector cleanup and a new sensor are usually needed.

Chrysler action plan: Unplug the Bank 1 exhaust camshaft sensor and inspect the connector. If you see oil, plan a combined fix: new OEM camshaft sensor + valve cover gasket replacement + electrical cleaner for the connector. Done together, this resolves the issue permanently for under $200 in parts.

P0368 on BMW N51 / N52 Inline-Six (328i, 528i, X3, X5 — 2006–2013)

The N51 (PZEV) and N52 magnesium-block inline-sixes power a large swath of mid-2000s to early-2010s BMWs. P0368 on these engines almost always points to two culprits — and an OEM Bosch part is the only reliable fix:

1. Exhaust camshaft position sensor failure. The N52's exhaust camshaft sensor sits in a hot location on the back of the cylinder head and fails internally over time. Symptoms are textbook P0368: long crank when the engine is fully warm.

2. Valve cover gasket leak (very common on N52). The plastic valve cover and its gasket are a known leak point. Oil contaminates the camshaft sensor connector, repeating the Chrysler pattern. BMW dealers will often quote a full valve cover replacement; many independents do just the gasket.

3. Genuine Bosch sensors only. Aftermarket camshaft sensors fail in BMW applications at high rates — owners commonly report a new code within months. Pay the OEM premium; it pays back in not doing the job twice.

BMW action plan: If your N52 has a leaking valve cover (visible oil on the spark plug tubes is the giveaway), do the gasket and the exhaust camshaft sensor at the same time. Use only OEM Bosch parts for the sensor. Clear adaptations after the repair using a BMW-capable scan tool.
How to check for a TSB or recall: Visit NHTSA.gov ↗, enter your VIN or year/make/model, and filter by Technical Service Bulletins or Manufacturer Communications. Search for "P0368," "camshaft position sensor," or "long crank." Some manufacturers have issued PCM reflashes that resolve the code at no cost.

Should You DIY or Call a Mechanic?

DIY If You…
  • Have a scanner with live data and freeze frame
  • Can use a multimeter to read voltage
  • Are comfortable working under the hood
  • Have basic hand tools (10mm socket, etc.)
  • Want to save $100–$200 in shop labor
Use a Mechanic If…
  • Vehicle is under powertrain or emissions warranty
  • The sensor is buried (rare V-engine, hard access)
  • Code returned after a sensor + cleaner fix
  • Multiple sensors show Circuit High (charging issue)
  • You don't have a multimeter or live-data scanner
Never authorize timing chain or camshaft work as a first step. P0368 is an electrical/circuit code — engine internal work is almost never the answer. If a shop quotes a timing job for a P0368, get a second opinion. Walk through the sensor and connector diagnosis first; the typical fix is under $100.

Related Codes You May See With P0368

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I drive with a P0368 code?
Yes, short distances are usually safe. P0368 causes long cranking, rough idle, and reduced fuel economy because the PCM has to guess engine timing from the crankshaft sensor alone, but most vehicles remain drivable. Don't ignore it though — unresolved P0368 can lead to repeated long cranks that wear the starter and battery, and in worst cases the engine may fail to start. Fix it within 1–2 weeks.
Will replacing the camshaft sensor fix P0368?
Often, yes — when the sensor itself has failed internally. But on engines with valve cover or cam seal leaks, the sensor connector often gets soaked in oil, which causes the same code. If you replace the sensor without fixing the oil leak, the new sensor will fail too. Always inspect the connector for oil contamination before buying parts.
How much does it cost to fix P0368?
Costs range from about $5 (DIY connector clean) to $300+ (shop sensor replacement, valve cover gasket job, or wiring repair). The OEM sensor itself is typically $30–$80, and the install is one 10mm bolt — under an hour. A full valve cover gasket replacement to stop the oil source is $150–$400 if needed.
Why does P0368 cause a long crank?
The PCM needs the camshaft position sensor signal to know exactly which cylinder is on the compression stroke so it can fire the right injector and spark plug at the right instant. With P0368 active, the PCM loses that information and falls back to guessing timing from the crankshaft sensor alone. The engine has to crank through several rotations before the PCM can sync — that's the "long crank" symptom.
Is P0368 the same as P0340?
No. P0340 is for the "A" camshaft position sensor (typically the intake camshaft on a DOHC engine, or the only sensor on a single-cam engine). P0368 is for the "B" camshaft sensor — usually the exhaust camshaft on a DOHC engine, located on Bank 1 (the side with cylinder #1). They're related but cover different sensors, so the diagnosis differs.
What causes P0368 on Chrysler 3.5L, 3.7L, and 4.7L engines?
On these Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge V6 and V8 engines (300, Pacifica, Liberty, Grand Cherokee, Ram 1500, Dakota), P0368 is overwhelmingly caused by a failed camshaft position sensor combined with valve cover gasket leaks soaking the connector. The fix is almost always: replace the Bank 1 exhaust camshaft sensor with an OEM part and replace the valve cover gasket if it's leaking. See our Chrysler deep-dive above.
What causes P0368 on a BMW?
On BMW engines (especially N51/N52 inline-sixes used in 328i, 528i, X3, X5 from roughly 2006–2013), P0368 typically points to a failed exhaust camshaft position sensor, often combined with the well-known BMW valve cover gasket leak that contaminates the sensor wiring. The OEM Bosch sensor is the recommended replacement; cheap aftermarket sensors often re-trigger the code within months on BMWs. See our BMW deep-dive above.
What scanner do I need to diagnose P0368?
You need a scanner that displays live engine data and freeze frame — not just a basic code reader. Watching the camshaft sensor's signal voltage and seeing what conditions trigger the code is what separates a sensor problem from a wiring or reference-voltage problem. The iCarzone UR800 is a bidirectional scan tool with live camshaft sensor data, freeze frame capture, and bidirectional reset functions.
Written & verified by

Automotive Diagnostic Specialists

Our team of ASE-certified technicians and OBD-II diagnostic engineers review every article for technical accuracy. Content is based on hands-on diagnostic experience across domestic, Asian, and European vehicle platforms.

10+ years diagnostic experience ASE Certified Last reviewed: May 2026